Monday, July 29, 2024

The Rock (Newfoundland) #3: Puffins, Whales & Cod

"Poser Puffin" at Elliston
There's a really good reason that Newfoundland is known as "The Rock." That's not to say that there aren't any trees. There are lots of trees, mostly evergreens, and most with the tops bent over from being constantly pounded by prevailing winds.

This summer we made our third trip to Newfoundland. If you've never been, it's definitely worth considering. It's a huge island and there are lots of really unique areas to explore. Bonus: /Newfunlanders/ really do welcome all those who Come From Away. 

Our latest trip to The Rock was to the Bonavista Peninsula and the North Central Region. Our goal was to see puffins, whales and to visit Fogo, Twillingate & Moreton's Harbour (i.e.: "all around the circle").

We flew into St. John's, rented a car and drove for ten days up and around the east coast of Newfoundland. We explored lots of little towns, saw both puffins & whales and sang "I'se the B'y" as we pulled into Fogo, Twillingate & Moreton's Harbour. 

Trinity was a lovely side trip off the main road up the Bonavista Peninsula. It is home to Aunt Sarah's Chocolates, lots of hiking trails, a cooperage, a blacksmith shop and lots of other unique places to explore. We didn't do any hiking, but we did buy some Wild Strawberry Chocolates. They were amazing!

Further up the peninsula, Elliston is known for it's root cellars and for the puffin viewing site. You won't get any closer to viewing puffins from land in North America. It is definitely worth the ten minute walk out to the site. We were fortunate enough to see a couple of "poser puffins" who landed close enough for us to get some great photos and enjoy an up-close puffin encounter. 

We spent two days in Bonavista which allowed us to explore some of the historical and natural sites in the area. We visited the Cape Bonavista lighthouse a couple of times and got a chance to watch the puffins swooping around the little island just off shore from the lighthouse. We also had lunch twice at The Little Dairy King on the way up the Cape Shore Road to the lighthouse. Definitely worth a stop!

Fogo Island is accessible by ferry from Farewell. You can't reserve the ferry so you just have to line up and hope that you are early enough. Coming back the line up was so long that most of the cars did not get on. We were one of the lucky (& early) ones. 

Fogo is pretty barren. It's not surprising that it is considered one of the four corners of the earth. Some areas have trees, but mostly there are lots of rocks. We explored some artist shops and checked out (not checked into) the Fogo Island Inn. We saw some whales spouting just off shore from the The SaltFire Gallery on the north shore and had a lovely stay at our "Escape By The Sea" accommodations in Seldom on the south shore.

On the road again, we stopped at the Beothuk Interpretation Centre in Boyd's Cove. It is located near a Beothuk archaeological site and pays tribute to this now extinct First Nations group. There are trails to the site and to the Spirit Garden. The Spirit Garden was a wonderful experience, very peaceful and magical. (See my video below.)

Twillingate via Moreton's Harbour was our next stop. Twillingate is the largest town on the Twillingate Islands. Exploring the town was fun, but we most enjoyed visiting the Long Point Lighthouse. In fact, we went there twice. During our second visit we saw several whales and an iceberg off the coast. It was definitely a highlight of our visit to the Twillingate area. 

We squeezed in a stop at Gander enroute and had the opportunity to see the "Come From Away" musical. It was wonderful and we got a mini lesson in how to speak "Newfunlander". Apparently, if you "adds" an "s" to all your verbs, you are on your way to speaking fluent "Newfunlander". That does not, however, take into account all of the unique sayings that you might hear during your visit.

We had part of a day to hit some of the highlights in St. John's, including Quidi Vidi, Signal Hill, Jellybean Row and then dinner at The Salt House.

The weather during our visit to Newfoundland was great. It was warmer than the locals were used to, but surprisingly the humidity was not an issue the way it can be around the Great Lakes in the summertime.

I ate a lot of cod during our visit to Newfoundland. Cod is intrinsically tied to the history and economy of Newfoundland. From the early days, through the moratorium and today, cod is a part of the island's essence. 

After three visits to Newfoundland, there are still places for us to explore in this beautiful province. I'm not sure when the next trip will be, but I'm guessing that there will indeed be another visit to The Rock in my future. 

The Newfoundland & Labrador tourism website is a great place to start planning your visit to The Rock. You can request a map and a guidebook through the website and they will mail it to you. So "Get On The Go" and start planning your visit to The Rock. ...and "Enjoy the Journey!"


Aunt Sarah's Chocolates (Trinity)  At Long Point Lighthouse (Twillingate)  Harbour at Quidi Vidi

SaltFire Gallery/Studio (Fogo Island)  Harbour in Twillingate


The Spirit Garden

•Beothuk Interpretation Centre•


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